

- #871 NON VGT MHHAUTO DRIVER#
- #871 NON VGT MHHAUTO FULL#
- #871 NON VGT MHHAUTO REGISTRATION#
- #871 NON VGT MHHAUTO CODE#
As such, car plates do not need to be changed if the car is sold or if the owner moves to another region within France.Ĭars bought before 2009 can still bear the old format, dating from 1950, if the owner has not moved to a different département since then.
#871 NON VGT MHHAUTO REGISTRATION#
This format is monitored nationwide and car plates are permanent and attached to a single vehicle from its first registration to its disposal. The registration plates issued since 2009 use a XX-NNN-ZZ format, composed of a series of 7 alphanumeric characters: 2 letters, 3 numbers, and then 2 letters (e.g. Since 1901, various systems have been successively introduced, the most recent dating from 2009.
#871 NON VGT MHHAUTO CODE#
Other quicker and cheaper solutions would be a modified stock type turbo, like a Cheetah.A pre-2009 car plate with the two-digit code for Paris (75). Or installed a valve based solution also from PacBrake. And I would have selected a different EB solution, I would have went with PacBrake. I would also go with a different tuning company. Had I to do it over, I would have gotten a 366SXE turbo. (Yea, I know, Mustangs are slow in stock form, but still impressive a ~7000# 4X4 truck can run with it.) And from ~40up, I'm side by side with his car. Obviously its NOT a race truck, I have raced my buddies 5.0 Mustang. With the added power, and having a 68RFE, also had to drop some coin on a built unit. So, yes, you CAN have a NON VGT turbo and retain the factory EB functionality.Īs truck was completely stock at that time, I also had to tune it for the new turbo. This kit works with the factory button and operates just like the factory VGT EB. With that said, I tow often, and I wanted the extra braking power provided by an EB. As some above have said, no Exhaust Brake with NON VGT (For the remainder of the thread to be referred to as EB, unless otherwise noted by **).

I tend to look forward to failures in my vehicles, as it gives me an opportunity to upgrade. (Granted, that includes tuning, deleting, exhaust, turbo and manifold, and built Transmission) Replace the Turbo & or Actuator, OR upgrade.įigured if I'm going to spend ~$1500 (Actuator) or ~$3000 for factory complete turbo Plus the labor to install, might-as-well spend more and get more I spent around ~$10,000 to fix my Turbo. Plus we’re talking another few hundred dollars or more.

Does it make sense to switch to non VGT and delete? Or should I just replace what is already there? Reliability and longevity are my main concerns.
#871 NON VGT MHHAUTO DRIVER#
This truck is not my daily driver but when in camping season it transports my family and 12K travel trailer.įrom what I’ve read, the VGT turbo is a known failure part. That will put me right around $4k installed.
#871 NON VGT MHHAUTO FULL#
Since the truck is out of warranty, I have been thinking about replacing with the BD Iron Horn s363 kit and doing a full delete. The best I can find locally is $3500 for a new factory turbo installed. They told me the in service date was September 20th 2013 and that the warranty expired November 20th 2018(this happened dec 11th) FCA wanted nothing to do with me and the dealer wanted $3900 to replace the turbo. Went to dealer and truck was out of warranty.

45k miles(bought used with 42,913 1 owner) CEL came on and went into limp mode. Any insight or if anyone has had a similar experience please help.Ģ014 3500 mega dually CTD.
